Lillian oyster hall now shucking in Scott's Addition

Lillian, a relaxed, modern oyster hall, has officially started shucking in The Gem (3001 W. Leigh St. Suite A) in Scott’s Addition. This is the latest project from Patrick Phelan and Megan Fitzroy Phelan, who also own Lost Letter (2939 W. Clay St.), just a few blocks away.

The bright and modern streamlined space is anchored by a long, low wooden wrap-around bar that serves as the main dining area. The design reflects a new trend of smaller footprint restaurants designed for a snack and a drink as opposed to long, leisurely dining.

Sidle up, grab a stool and peruse the menu while the aroma of toasting bread and decadent sauces tantalize your taste buds.

“We honed in on that whole diner vibe, sitting at a counter height and having everything visible to you,” Patrick Phelan said. “Where you can be in this moment of eating food and we can simply place more stuff in front of you as you work through the menu.”

As the name would imply, the menu starts with a selection of fresh oysters from across North America. Selections change regularly based on availability and oysters are served with a refreshingly tangy house-made mignonette, umami house-made kombu jam, classic Frank’s hot sauce and lemon.

You’ll also find a full raw bar selection, but don’t think “raw” means plain or basic. You’ll see some of the creative flavor combinations that the couple has become known for since they started hosting pop-ups in Richmond years ago.

The menu is highlighted by a seafood tower that includes oysters, shrimp, clams and tuna tartare, but also shooters and cured meat skewers ($85 for petite or $125 for grand). Other options like a dressed lobster tail and scallop crudo with zingy mandarin kosho, shiso and radishes have thoughtful flavor additions that enhance the simple seafood flavors.

If tinned fish is more your speed, you can choose from several exotic varieties, like Los Peperetes Bonito in Pickle Sauce served on a platter with fresh baguette slices, pickled peppers, parsley salad and house-made cultured butter.

Those who don’t love the sea should try the toast with bacon, curry leaf and hot sauce ($18) — it’s a slab of house-made sourdough loaded with a decadent sweet-savory bacon sauce and dainty little peppers. Chef Chris Morina described it as a “Bacon Sloppy Joe” — it’s all those saucy flavors you remember from your youth upscaled with more interesting flavors and textures.

Cured meat is sliced to order — and can be enjoyed alone ($14 for 3 oz.) or on a baguette with butter ($18) — lunch is calling.

The menu also includes a selection of plates — these range in size and flavor and can make a small snack or larger meal, depending on what you choose. The roasted beets with creamy yogurt, coriander, tart barberry and a drizzle of olive oil ($14) were a simple standout. Consommé with shrimp wontons ($18) is a light, delicate soup that will leave you sipping every drop of the savory broth from the bowl.

“This is the kind of restaurant I want to run into when I’m traveling,” Phelan said. “It’s really easy to walk into. It’s so much more than must a raw bar. There are small plates, larger plates, sliced meats, sandwiches, desserts and a really great cocktail bar.”

To drink, choose from house-made cucumber celery or grapefruit ginger sodas ($6 each, add a spirit for another $8) and classic cocktails. On the “Refreshers” side of things, options span a Suze French aperitif and tonic ($15), the Lillian Daiquiri ($15), and an herbal Nordic 75 ($15) featuring Aquavit, lemon, Herbsaint and sparkling wine.

If you want something boozier, look to the Bracing menu section for a refreshing absinthe frappe ($15) or The Lillian Martini ($15), featuring gin, oyster vermouth and orange bitters — a perfect pairing for oysters. There are also interesting wines on tap, including a Riesling from the Finger Lakes ($10), carefully selected beers, and a big menu of wine bottles organized into creative categories like Ancient Seafloor, River and Glacier.

For dessert, pastry chef Fitzroy Phelan crafted two delicate sweets to follow the rest of the meal — chocolate velvet mousse cake and an olive oil citrus parfait ($12 each).

“The style of food we’re doing, the casual dining, I would describe it as extended grazing,” Phelan said. “You’re not locked into an appetizer, salad, main course, dessert. You can just hop around and experience a lot of different things.”

“People can stop in anytime. Whether they’re pre-gaming or sitting down for a full meal,” Fitzroy Phelan added.

With the counter-style seating and relaxed atmosphere, Lillian is basically walk in, first come, first served. There are 23 seats at the bar and 24 spots for standing. There is also one booth that sits three to five people that can be reserved.

Lillian is open Tuesday-Thursday from 4-9 p.m., Friday from 4-10 p.m., Saturday from 11 a.m.-10 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m.-9 p.m.